Margate's tide has turned. Once seen as a faded seaside town, it is now a vibrant harbour of creativity. Whether you're into modern art, indie boutiques, natural wine or just want to stuff your face with fish and chips and flop into the sea, it's time to explore this revitalised dreamland. From mysterious grottos to seaside small plates, we will help you to make the most out of the sea-breeze. Emmy Watts (brilliant author of our Opinionated Guides to Free London and Eco London) is back with a pithy and highly opinionated selection of the coolest, most creative places in Margate.