bmake a fire. fake a fire. roast your oysters. dance for pipis. slow it down. raise a toast. take lunch. grill a salad. bake a crab. step outside. burn your pav. pass the salt. eat with your hands. chew on the bone.b piEsteri is an invitation to play with your food and enjoy the adventure. It's born of an eponymous restaurant in inner Sydney, but it's proudly not a restaurant book. Think of it more as the foundations for some new ideas in your kitchen and at your table written to be used, shared, read aloud, perhaps burnt. p Mat Lindsay's cooking resists easy labels. Certainly it's a distinct kind of full-flavoured Australian food generous, mindfully chosen seafood darkly caramelised wood-fired bread vegetables cooked to just the right level of doneness meat that's been treated with respect and, often, time and the odd burnt pavlova, a true signature. Ester the restaurant is all about its wood-fired oven and the magic it imparts, but the fundamentals don't change at home, and everythin