A story about dirt--and about sun, water, work, elation, and defeat. And about the sublime pleasure of having a little piece of French land all to oneself to till. p Richard Goodman saw the ad in the paper SOUTHERN FRANCE Stone house in Village near NimesAvignonUzes. 4 BR, 2 baths, fireplace, books, desk, bikes. Perfect for writing, painting, exploring experiencing la France profonde. 450 mo. plus utilities. And, with his girlfriend, he left New York City to spend a year in Southern France. p The village was small--no shops, no gas station, no post office, only a caf and a school. St. Sebastien de Caisson was home to farmers and vintners. Every evening Goodman watched the villagers congregate and longed to be a part of their camaraderie. But they weren't interested in him he was just another American, come to visit and soon to leave. So Goodman laced up his work boots and ventured out into the vineyards to work among them. He met them first as a hired worker, and then as a farmer of